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RLP Gen 1 Sub 2000 Forend (Base Unit - No Rails)- IET Model #218


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Red Lion Precision Gen 1 Sub 2000 Forend (Base Unit - No Rails
Product Code: R6

For Gen 1 Sub 2000, will not fit Gen 2 Sub 2000.

Customers Note !!!
This item CANNOT be shipped outside the US!

Factory Front Sight Needs Removed For Install, Removing The Factory Front Sight Almost Certainly Requires Destroying It (See Installation Instructions for details).

Now compatable with new and old style lock nuts on Sub2000 rifles.

This forend features many of the same design qualities that our SU forends and PLR forends have. The main feature of this design, however, is that it indexes to repeatable positive positions in 90 degree increments to allow you to keep your optic mounted, zeroed, and still be able to fold the gun. This is accomplished by using the same concept as a picatinny rail but with four 45 degree tangs interfacing with a mating negative in the face of the forend mounting coupler. This provides positive positioning in the X,Y Plane for repeatability. This design also leaves very little room for contaminates to enter the interface.

Changes made since first run include new slot cutouts for more rail options (basically any rail that is 19 slot or under and uses 10-24 screws in bolt hole patterns divisible by .394) and cooling slots machined to accept Ergo LowPro Rail Covers when a rail is not present in that location. Cut rail covers into four rib sections for use. Magpul polymer rails can be used along with their supplied hardware except in the most forward location or rearward location in which case using one of our rail grommets would solve this but rail will protrude slightly out the front. Ours and the Magpul rails will co-witness with either the factory sights or our R7 front sight when using a mount that co-witnesses with AR15 iron sights when mounted on a AR15 A3 flattop reciever that has a 1/2 inch riser. In our example pic mount used was the ARMS22 M68 Aimpoint mount without spacer.

  • Indexable to allow top mounted optics to remain on and still fold gun

  • Repeatable Zero

  • Modular design

  • Main Body and Rails CNC Machined From Aircraft Quality Aluminum Stock

  • Mil Spec 8625 Black Hard Anodized

  • 1.725" DIA X 11.2" Length

  • Weighs Approx. 14.75 oz

  • Black Oxide Steel Screw Posts for Rails and Clamping Bolt

  • Grade 8 Screws

  • Rails Precisely Located With Bugle Type Flat Head Screw In Combination With Screw Post

  • Extended Clamping Screw Post For Increased Thread Engagement/Strength

  • Enclosed front

  • Made In USA

This forend does NOT include rails - choose up to 4 rails from the products below (NOTE - One Side Must Remain Railless For Full Foldability):

IET Model 209 - Red Lion Precision 11 Slot Picatinny Rail with hardware

IET Model 210 - Red Lion Precision 8 Slot Picatinny Rail with hardware

IET Model 217 - Red Lion Precision 19 Slot Picatinny Rail with hardware

To index forend:
  • Loosen knurled nut until it contacts forend (approx 1/10 inch)

  • Index forend to desired position

  • Retighten knurled nut.

  • No tools needed.

Gun Interface-Forend coupler clamps to barrel and also engages back plate on S2K for positioning. Does not allow barrel to unscrew when force is applied to forend.

Downloadable IET Model 218 Installation Instructions PDF

Installation Instructions:
IET Model 218

Note: Factory front site must removed for installation. This is can be accomplished using a Heat Gun but factory front sight will almost certainly be destroyed. See installation instructions below for more detail. One side of forend must remain rail free for full folding of gun.

Installation Instructions For #R6

  • Tools required: 5/32 allen wrench, T15 torx wrench, and a flathead screwdriver (torque wrench recommended)

  1. Make sure magazine is removed and chamber is empty.

  2. If not already done the front sight must be removed for install. I removed mine by cutting off the plastic sight from its metal bushing with a dremmel tool. I then used a heat gun set at 800 degrees and heated the bushing for about 4 minutes at which time the bushing easily slid off and the residue from the loctite that held the bushing on could be wiped clean . After doing this I believe if you wanted to keep the sight in a reusable condition, you would not have to cut the plastic sight off the metal bushing. I believe that placing heat on the barrel adjacent to the bushing would achieve the same result though would likely take a bit longer.

  3. Remove stock forend. After removed your barrel may be able to turn, try to make sure it doesn't throughout install. It can move a little but you don't want it unscrewing much. Newer guns are pinned instead of loctited, if pinned this isn’t an issue. Also not all loctited barrels are loose.

  4. Configure R6 forend (part #2 in exploded view diagram) with rails at whatever location you desire. Forend does not have any predetermined top or bottom as all sides are indentical. To attach rails place grommet into locating hole from the inside of the forend (hold in place with finger or popsicle stick or alike if your finger can't reach). Place rail into position. Place 10-24 x 1/2" flathead screw through the rail and into the grommet and tighten till grommet is slightly flexed and somewhat conformed to the forend ID radius.

  5. Place coupler (part# 6 in exploded view diagram) over barrel and slide all the way back until cutout face contacts the lock nut face. Make sure prior to this that the lock nut of the gun is screwed down to the desired tightness as this controls how tight the gun locks into the firing position when the trigger guard is shut. The coupler contacting the lock nut face prevents the lock nut from loosening. Be sure that the clamping holes of the coupler are oriented down and the Red Lion Logo (lion's head) is on the ejection side of gun.

  6. Place part #'s 7, 8, &9 in place as shown in diagram if they were previously removed (these are shipped in place). Tighten only #7 cap screws into the corresponding #9 nuts until coupler just turns on barrel with minimal clearance.

  7. Place parts #8 and #9 into place according to the diagram if not already done so. IMPORTANT:Before tightening make sure the gun is unfolded and locked into its firing position, this orients the square back plate of gun that the coupler orients off of. After making sure coupler is slid all the way toward the receiver with the cutout face of coupler contacting lock nut face, then tighten #8 cap screw into corresponding #9 nut until the coupler ears contact (6ft/lbs MAX, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN, this doesn’t hold anything on, it just orients the forend to the square plate) the square back plate of the gun that contacts the polymer receiver.

  8. Tighten #7 cap screws into #9 nuts. This clamps the barrel and prevents movement forward and back (while also locking the barrel relationship to the square plate). If using a torque wrench, tighten to 9-10ft/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just make it really tight, basically as tight as you can make it (checking this explained next). When shooting for the first time check to see if a gap opens between where the coupler and lock nut contact (if adjusted properly the lock nut should not tighten further when shooting then where set in step 5) every 1 or 2 shots for atleast the first ten shots (try to have a good purchase on the forend when shooting for this check to make sure its getting a good jolt). If a gap should appear then the forend is moving forward and #7 cap screws need tightened into #9 nuts more. This gap check is mostly helpful in allowing those without a torque wrench determine whether they have #7+#9 hardware tightened properly but should also be done for those using torque wrenches as a double check.

  9. Now part #s 5, 4, 2 , and 1 must be assembled into one unit. Place #4 (threaded ID end first) over the nose of part #5. Then place part #2 over the nose of part #5 (see diagram).Place part #3 screw (6-32x3/8 torx plus flathead) into the countersunk holes in part #2 and screw into the threaded holes in the OD of the nose of part #5. Just snug till all 8 are in place, then tighten. Try to snug and then tighten opposing screws, like you would tighten lug nuts on a tire. Now place the endcap (part #1) in the front of the forend (part#2) and use 2 more part #3 screws to secure. Use of Blue Loctite 242 Threadlocker (medium strength) or other manufacturer equivalent is recommended for #3 screws (6-32x3/8 torx plus flathead) , a little bit goes a long way so place just a little drop on a spot on the front of the screw thread and it will spread around when screwed in. Blue Loctite 242 Threadlocker will take a set in 10 minutes and should fully cure in 24hrs and be ready for use.

  10. Place part # 5, 4, 2, and 1 unit over the barrel (part # 5 first). Point muzzle upward. Slide back till you are able to thread part # 4 (knurled nut) onto the coupler (part #6) that was installed previously. Thread until coupler (part# 6) is able to contact forend adapter (part# 5) and then orient so that the mating tangs engage, then finish tightening part # 4 down to lock into place.

  11. To index the forend: Unscrew knurled nut till forend can be lifted up (approx 1/8" movement needed) and spun into next location (90 degree increments), let the forend back down for tangs to engage, tighten knurled nut to lock in place. If knurled nut seems gritty when tightening and loosening, apply a small amount of light oil to threads .

  • Model: IET Model #218
  • Shipping Weight: 0.93lbs
  • Manufactured by: Red Lion Precision